Fountain pens give you a writing experience that’s hard to beat, but let’s be honest—they can act up. Poor ink flow, annoying leaks, and dried-up ink can turn your favorite pen into a headache fast.

Most fountain pen problems come from dried ink, storing your pen the wrong way, or just skipping basic cleaning. You can usually fix these issues at home with a little patience and some simple cleaning tricks.

You don’t need to be an expert or spend a fortune. A few practical steps can get almost any pen—cheap or pricey—writing smoothly again.

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Key Takeaways

• Dried ink blocking the feed usually causes poor ink flow. Cleaning solves it.
• Most leaks happen from overfilling or storing your pen in heat.
• A regular, simple cleaning routine keeps most fountain pen issues away.

Diagnosing Common Fountain Pen Problems

Fountain pen problems usually fall into three buckets: bad ink flow (like skipping or hard starts), leaks, and blocked parts that stop the pen from writing.

Identifying Typical Ink Flow Issues

Skipping and hard starts are the classic ink flow problems. The pen writes a bit, then just gives up until you shake it or press harder.

Inconsistent line width means your lines are either too thick and messy or too thin and scratchy.

Watch for these signs:

• The pen stops writing in the middle of a sentence.
• You have to scribble or shake to get it started.
• Lines fade, disappear, or get patchy.
• Ink pools on the paper.
• Writing feels rough or scratchy.

Dry nibs leave faint, uneven marks. Sometimes they’re fine after a break but struggle during longer sessions.

Flooded nibs are the opposite—they leave thick, messy lines and might even drip when you’re not using the pen.

Spotting Signs of Leaks

Visible ink stains on your fingers, shirt, or paper? That’s a leak, usually around the grip or where the cap meets the barrel.

Ink in the cap is normal if it’s just a little. But if you find puddles or a cap that’s always wet, something’s up.

Leaks often show up:

• Between the nib and feed
• Around the threads on the grip
• Where the cartridge or converter connects
• Through cracks in the barrel or cap

If your ink disappears faster than you write, the pen’s leaking somewhere inside.

Wet spots on your desk or in your pen case mean ink is escaping—even if you haven’t used the pen for a while.

Recognizing Clogged Nibs and Feeds

If your pen just won’t write at all, dried ink probably clogged the feed channels.

Stuttering flow gives you broken, gappy lines. That’s a partial clog—not a total blockage, but enough to be annoying.

If the ink color looks weird or darker, old dried ink is mixing with fresh stuff.

Look for:

• Dried ink on the nib
• Crusty gunk around the feed
• Ink buildup in the grip
• Strange colors in clear feeds

A “baby’s bottom” nib (rounded tip that won’t touch the paper right) can look like a flow problem, but it’s a different fix.

How to Fix Fountain Pen Ink Flow Issues

Poor ink flow usually means the nib and feed aren’t lined up, old ink’s clogging things, or your ink’s too thick.

Adjusting Nib Alignment

A misaligned nib messes up ink flow and makes writing scratchy. The two tines should be parallel and evenly spaced.

Hold your pen up to the light and check the gap between the tines. The gap should be even from the tip back.

If the tines are too close:

• Slide a thin piece of paper between them.
• Gently pull the paper toward the tip.
• Do this a couple times until the gap opens a bit.

If the tines are too far apart:

• Press both tines together gently.
• Use light pressure—don’t force it.
• Check the flow after each adjustment.

From the side, both tines should touch the paper at the same time. If one’s higher, nudge it down carefully.

Small tweaks work best. Don’t get heavy-handed.

Flushing the Feed

Old ink loves to hang out in the feed and block fresh ink. Flushing clears out dried ink and gunk.

Take out the cartridge or converter. Fill a cup with room temperature water.

To flush:

• Run water through the nib section.
• Let it flow from the back of the feed through the nib.
• Keep going for 30–60 seconds until the water’s clear.

For stubborn clogs:

• Soak the nib section in water for a couple hours.
• Use a bulb syringe to push water through.
• Repeat until you don’t see any more ink.

A drop of dish soap can help with tough buildup. Let it soak in soapy water for half an hour, then rinse thoroughly.

Dry everything completely before putting it back together. Water left inside can mess with ink flow.

Using the Right Ink for Your Pen

Some inks are just too thick for certain pens. Fountain pen inks have different thickness, and it really matters.

Best ink types for smooth flow:

• Big-name fountain pen brands
• Water-based, low-viscosity inks
• Anything labeled “fast-flowing” or “wet”

Inks to skip:

• India or calligraphy ink
• Pigment inks in dry pens
• Old, thickened ink

Try new ink in a cheap pen first. Some combos just don’t play nice.

Fine nibs like thin inks. Broad nibs can handle thicker ones. Match your ink to your nib for best results.

Store ink bottles upright, away from heat or cold. Heat thickens ink, cold makes it runnier.

Resolving Fountain Pen Leaks

Leaks usually mean parts are loose, seals are worn out, or air pressure changed (like on a plane). You can usually fix leaks by checking the fit, replacing old seals, or storing the pen right.

Checking Pen Assembly and Tightness

Loose parts are leak magnets. The converter, cartridge, and barrel all need to fit snugly.

Take out the cartridge or converter. Check the threads where the barrel screws onto the section.

Tighten the barrel until it’s snug, but don’t overdo it.

Check these spots:

• Barrel to section
• Converter or cartridge seal
• Cap threads
• Feed alignment

Look at the cartridge or converter seal. The little rubber ring should sit flat against the feed. If it’s cracked or warped, swap it out.

Push the ink supply in firmly. Cartridges should click; converters should twist or push in all the way.

Write a few lines to test. Hold the pen at different angles and watch for leaks.

Replacing Worn or Damaged Seals

Seals get old and crack, letting ink slip through. Most pens use tiny O-rings or gaskets for a tight fit.

Find the worn seal by taking the pen apart piece by piece. Look for little black or clear rings around the converter, cartridge opening, or barrel threads.

Take out the old seal gently. Note its size before tossing it.

Common spots for seals:

• Around the converter neck
• Inside the barrel
• Behind the feed
• On cartridge tips

Bring the old seal to the shop to match sizes. Silicone O-rings last longer than rubber.

Put the new seal on gently. Make sure it sits flat—no twisting or bunching.

Preventing Leaks During Air Travel

Flying can push ink out through the nib thanks to pressure changes. Smart storage can save your bag from disaster.

Empty your pen before flying, or fill it all the way with no air bubbles. Half-full pens leak the most.

Store the pen nib-up in your pocket or bag. That keeps leaks away from the cap.

Travel tips:

• Use a pen case or sleeve
• Keep pens upright
• Don’t toss them loose in luggage
• Double-check the cap before takeoff

Cartridges handle pressure changes better than converters. If you’re flying long-haul, go with cartridges.

After landing, let your pen sit for 10–15 minutes before writing to adjust to pressure.

Effective Cleaning Hacks for Fountain Pens

Regular cleaning keeps your pens happy and ink flowing. Taking them apart, soaking, and using mild cleaning solutions clears out stubborn gunk.

Step-by-Step Pen Disassembly

Take off the cap and unscrew the barrel from the section. The section holds the nib and feed.

Gently pull the nib straight out from the feed. Some nibs are tight, so a little wiggling helps.

Parts to separate:

• Cap
• Barrel
• Section
• Nib
• Feed
• Cartridge or converter

The feed usually slides out after the nib. If it’s stuck, soak the section in warm water for 10 minutes.

Keep all the small parts in a dish so they don’t disappear. Snap a photo before you start if you’re worried about reassembly.

Never force anything. If it won’t budge, soak it longer or check the maker’s instructions.

Simple Soaking and Flushing Methods

Fill a cup with room temperature water. Drop in the nib, feed, and section for about 30 minutes.

If ink’s really stubborn, soak overnight and change the water if it gets dark.

To flush:

1. Fill a bulb syringe with clean water.
2. Stick the tip into the back of the section.
3. Squeeze water through the feed and nib.
4. Keep going until the water runs clear.

Shake off extra water and pat parts dry with a lint-free cloth.

For cartridge pens, flush the section well. For converters, fill and empty them a few times with water.

Using Cleaning Solutions Safely

Add a drop of dish soap to a cup of water for basic cleaning. That usually gets rid of oils and stubborn ink.

Safe cleaning options:

• Diluted ammonia (1:10 with water)
• Pen flush (store-bought cleaner)
• Distilled water with a drop of dish soap

Soak parts for 15–30 minutes. Never use alcohol, acetone, or harsh stuff—those can wreck plastic and seals.

Rinse everything well with plain water after using any cleaner. Soap left behind can mess with ink flow.

Try the cleaning solution on a hidden spot first if you’re worried. Some old pens have delicate materials that don’t like certain cleaners.

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Maintaining Your Fountain Pen for Peak Performance

Regular cleaning keeps most fountain pen problems at bay. If you store your pens properly, they’ll work smoothly between uses.

Establishing a Cleaning Routine

Weekly maintenance really does wonders for fountain pens. If you write often, flush your pen with cool water every week or two.

For basic cleaning, just remove the cartridge or converter. Hold the nib section under cool running water for about half a minute—stop when the water runs clear.

Monthly deep cleaning helps with stubborn ink buildup. Soak the nib section in cool water for a couple of hours, maybe add a tiny drop of dish soap to break down dried ink.

Some pens need special care:

• Vintage pens: Stick to water, skip the soap.
• Eyedropper pens: Clean those barrel threads every month.
• Piston fillers: Flush the mechanism with water.

Skip the hot water and harsh chemicals—they can mess up the feed system and crack the plastic. After cleaning, shake out extra water and let everything air dry for a full day before putting the pen back together.

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Proper Storage Tips

Cap position really matters for storage. Always keep capped pens nib-up or lying flat.

If you store pens nib-down, ink pools in the feed. That leads to hard starts and, honestly, the occasional leak.

For short-term storage (a week or two), keep pens filled and capped tightly. Make sure the cap clicks or twists on securely.

For longer breaks:

• Empty the pen completely.
• Clean it with water.
• Store it capped, but remove the converter.
• Keep it somewhere cool and dry.

Temperature swings aren’t your pen’s friend. Don’t leave pens in cars, near heaters, or in direct sunlight—cold makes ink thick, heat can dry it out.

Pen cases keep nibs safe. Hard cases are great for travel, while soft sleeves are fine for your desk drawer.

Selecting Compatible Paper and Ink

Paper quality really changes how your fountain pen feels. Smooth, tightly woven paper works best.

Cheap paper? It grabs the nib and makes writing scratchy. Ink bleeds through or feathers on rough stuff.

Some good paper picks:

• Rhodia notebooks
• Clairefontaine journals
• Tomoe River paper
• Most laser printer paper

Inks vary, too. Water-based inks flow easily but take longer to dry. Iron gall inks resist water but can corrode steel nibs over time.

Match your ink’s viscosity to the pen’s feed. Dry pens like wetter inks; wet pens need something drier.

Mixing inks from different brands isn’t a great idea. Dyes and pH levels don’t always play nice. Clean your pen well if you’re changing colors or brands.

Shimmer inks look cool but can clog feeds. Clean more often and use broader nibs for those.

Troubleshooting Less Common Fountain Pen Problems

Scratchy writing, hard starts, and ink evaporation can turn a nice pen into a headache. Usually, it’s a nib problem, a blocked feed, or just storing the pen wrong.

Addressing Scratchy Writing Experiences

A scratchy nib feels like writing on sandpaper. Usually, the tines are misaligned or there’s a rough spot.

Check the tines by holding the pen up to the light. The gap between them should look even from feed to tip. If one’s higher, a little gentle pressure can fix it.

To smooth rough spots, use 12000-grit micromesh or a nail buffing pad. Move in figure-eight motions, but go slow—test often so you don’t overdo it.

After smoothing, test the ink flow. Sometimes scratchiness comes from poor flow; flush the pen and refill if things seem off.

If the nib’s badly damaged or way out of alignment, you might need a pro to fix it.

Fixing Hard Starts and Skipping

Hard starts mean the pen needs a few strokes before ink flows. Skipping is when the ink cuts out mid-sentence.

Clean the feed with pen flush or a diluted ammonia solution. Dried ink can block those tiny channels.

Check the inner cap for cracks or dried ink. A loose or damaged cap lets air in and messes with ink flow.

Prime the feed by gently squeezing the cartridge or converter while the nib touches paper. This pushes fresh ink through.

Store pens nib-up if you won’t use them for a while. That keeps ink where it needs to be and stops air bubbles from forming.

If you’re using old cartridges, swap them out. Stale ink thickens and clogs feeds more than fresh ink.

Dealing With Ink Evaporation or Dry-Out

Ink evaporation leaves cartridges half-empty and the rest turns into thick sludge.

Store pens somewhere cool and a bit humid. Heat and dry air speed up evaporation, especially through plastic cartridges or loose caps.

Glass bottles hold up better than plastic cartridges for long-term storage. They keep ink from drying out.

Check cap threads and make sure they’re tight. If the cap’s cross-threaded, air sneaks in and dries out the ink.

If ink gets a bit thick, add a little distilled water and mix well. Never use tap water—it’s got minerals that can clog things up.

If you have a bunch of pens, rotate them. Write with each at least once a month to keep the ink system alive.

Frequently Asked Questions

A lot of fountain pen users run into the same issues—ink flow, leaks, clogs, and pens that just won’t write. Here are some quick fixes.

How do I resolve inconsistent ink flow in my fountain pen?

First, check if there’s enough ink in the cartridge or converter. Low ink can cause flow issues.

Remove and reinsert the cartridge firmly. Loose connections block ink from reaching the nib.

Clean the feed and nib with warm water if ink’s dried inside. Old ink can clog up the works.

Prime the pen by gently squeezing the cartridge or turning the converter knob. That pushes fresh ink through.

What steps should I take to address a leaky fountain pen?

Tighten the barrel where it meets the grip. Loose parts let ink escape.

Check for cracked or damaged cartridges. Swap out any broken ones right away.

Clean dried ink from threads and connections. Built-up ink keeps things from sealing properly.

Store the pen upright when you’re not using it. That keeps ink in the reservoir, not the cap.

How can I effectively clean a clogged fountain pen nib?

Flush the nib and feed with lukewarm water until it runs clear. Don’t use hot water—it can damage plastic.

If flushing doesn’t work, soak the nib assembly for 10-15 minutes. That dissolves stubborn ink.

Use a pen flush solution for really bad clogs. Commercial cleaners beat plain water for dried or mixed inks.

Brush gently between the tines with a soft toothbrush if you need to. Never force the tines apart—you’ll wreck the nib.

Why is my new fountain pen not writing and how can I fix it?

New pens sometimes have manufacturing oils on the nib. Flush with water before first use.

Prime the ink system by gently squeezing the cartridge or working the filling mechanism. That gets ink flowing.

Make sure the cartridge is fully inserted and pierced. Some need a little extra pressure to puncture.

Write on scratch paper with a light touch to start the ink flow. Heavy pressure can damage a new nib before it’s broken in.

What are the best practices for maintaining optimal function in fountain pens?

Clean your pen every month or so if you use it regularly. That stops ink buildup from causing flow problems.

Stick with one ink brand when you can. Mixing different inks sometimes causes clogs or weird reactions.

Store pens horizontally or nib-up to keep air bubbles out of the feed. That helps maintain steady ink flow.

Cap your pen if you’re not using it for more than a few minutes. That keeps ink from drying in the nib.

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How can I troubleshoot a fountain pen that stops writing intermittently?

First off, check for air bubbles in the cartridge or converter. Sometimes, just a gentle tap or a quick flick can move those bubbles and get the ink flowing again.

Make sure the nib actually touches the paper at the right angle. Most fountain pens really prefer a 45-degree angle—anything too steep or shallow, and you’ll probably have issues.

If your pen’s been sitting unused for a few days, dried ink might block the flow. Give the feed channels a quick clean to clear that up.

Also, take a look at the tines. They need to be properly aligned and not spread apart, or you’ll get skipping and those annoying interruptions.

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